“For what is the use of asking, I ask, when we cannot even authoritatively decide whether a question asks or doesn’t ask?” (1371, deMan). This line in Paul deMan made me laugh out loud on the six train.
Let’s talk the semiotics of the New York subway and, later, delve into the semiotics of subway signs.
Perhaps the green bulb and railing are for New Yorkers what the Eiffel tower is to the Parisians; the subway steps, the tower’s elevator; the subway’s underground muffling of the city, the tower’s panoramic vista. You cannot escape the subway in New York, not really, unless you are in upstate New York, but that is obviously not the New York to which I am referring. This, you find that you already know because the word subway has already subjected you to picturing a geographical, topological location which may or may not include Staten Island. You can escape the Empire State Building, however, which is our, perhaps, immediate go-to equivalent to the Eiffel Tower that can be seen from everywhere in Paris. The metal grids, the vibration below your feet, the loud rumbling, and the homelessness stench all remind you of the subway through more senses than simply sight, which is the only sense Barthes mentions in discussing the Eiffel Tower’s dominion of the Parisian or tourist (12). Even when you are in the NYC subway system, you cannot visit it or “escape” it like you can the Eiffel tower; the subway does not have a defining interior or exterior. One can conceive of an inside or an outside, but the exits are not doors (for the most part); instead, there are just steps into the sunny or lamplit unknown. One need not push or pull anything. Therefore, like the Eiffel Tower, the subway system cannot have an interior or exterior since it does not have concrete borders between its innards and outers, but the New York subway becomes more difficult since it does not occupy a single location. The subway does not end. Where is the subway? Everywhere, and how can you be inside and away from e v e r y w h e r e?
In comparison with Barthes’ ideas on the Eiffel Tower, the two, Eiffel Tower and NYC subway, do diverge a little: whereas the Eiffel Tower lacks any pragmatic usage at all, the subway map and system do not (5). Nonetheless, the intricate map of the subway system has become just as symbolic as the Eiffel Tower. One can buy posters, bags, mugs, and iPhone cases depicting the intricate labyrinth that is the subway system with all its glorious colors, numbers and letters. This souvenir would say just as much as if not more than the magnet of the Eiffel Tower on one’s fridge. “I was here” becomes “I made it;” The subway map is the clew to New York, which one must wield well to have visited and, moreover, to make it through the crowd and disorientation alive. One cannot visit New York without taking the subway just as one cannot visit Paris without climbing the Eiffel tower; however, in New York, the subway system supplies more than a visit, it allows an initiation.
Moreover, the subway offers a panoramic view of New York City just as the Eiffel Tower does for Paris without the need of a climb to the top of the Empire State Building, a worthy cultural endeavor nonetheless. While going over the bridge on the N, D, B, etc. train, the rider receives a sweeping view of the New York City skyline in motion. This panorama, however, does not offer a sense of dominion as the Empire State Building might and as Barthes explains the Eiffel tower succeeds in doing, but, rather, it is another, I think, initiatory experience that goes beyond being a part of something, which a simple promenade around the city offers (10). As a subway traveler overground, one is both experiencing being part of something as well as the view of what that something is. As a subway traveler underground, one can add that the occasional traffic noises or the racket of construction offers an auditory overview of what it means to hear a whole city without necessarily being within it or without.
The signs on the subway are even more intricate. While the words contained within the signs such as uptown, downtown, manhattan, queens, etc can be confined to the semiotics of purely language; there are other subtle indicators contained within these subway signs, which New Yorkers are probably too attuned to notice and because of which other foreigners may become confused. I was at the West Fourth street train station on my way to Uptown, Queens and wanted to catch the F, so I followed the sign that said “B D F M Uptown,” walked through a hallway, down the stairs, and arrived at another staircase above which was another sign that read:
“BDFM AC Downtown
Brooklyn.“
It looked like this, only a little more confusing. Due to experience, I understood that Downtown, Brooklyn was a direction limited to the A and C trains by how far away the “BDFM” was from it. Others were not so fortunate. A man with an unfit leg walked down the hallway and stairs only to misread the sign and walk back up after telling his aggravated daughter that they were in the wrong place. I am not sure if every New Yorker is as sensitive to these subtleties, but I am sure a New Yorker would be quicker at grasping them.